google_color_bg = "FFFFFF"; They traversed Pik Razdelnaya (6,148m), joining the normal route to Lenin as it works up the latter's west-northwest ridge. google_color_url = "008000"; The (5A) The temperature was down to -50 degrees C. Expedition leader: Leonid Troshchinenko (Leningrad). Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. Though 3 Italians on my flight lost their luggage - I have no information how it was resolved. It's located next door to the Chinibagh Hotel. This can be very expensive if talking to the "wrong" people. The Base CampsThe normal BC is called Pamir Base Camp or Camp Achik-Tash and is located at 3500 m. It's in nice settings and one of few BC's for 7000m peaks which are on grass, in quite warm surroundings. Thanks in advance. (2), Images The most serious thing - is ascent before the summit plateau up to 6,900, it's a narrow and steep ridge called "the Nose", where it is easy to fall down. He crossed the Fergana valley, then via Osh, the Chigirik Pass and Terekdavan Pass he reached the Kashgar and finally came over the Karakorum. (33), Comments Many climbers also come back with fond memories of having "camped with nomads" and great horse-back rides on the grasslands. The inaugural expedition will take place in August 2022 and is reserved for alumnae of other AWExpeditions climbs. Green rolling pastures with the yurts of the nomadic Kyrgyz sprinkled through the lush valley. If arriving on a sunny and calm day the atmosphere can be deceptively harmless, but pin down your tent properly as sudden strong gusts occurs now and then.There are many small rivers close to the camps. The Chinese peak has even easier access, is higher and also considered less dangerous than Pik Lenin. For many Russian alpinists the completion of the snow leopard peaks is an important goal.The five Snow Leopard mountains are: * You can even do without crampons or axe, or even both. The spring is beautiful and extremely green and even if the weather in general is quite good, sudden violent storms hits the peak. Be sure you are acclimatized before leaving Khorog as the road will stay on a high altitude for a long time ahead. ""Why must you people be so serious about all this? So it is "cheaper" to fall north, especially if you want your relatives to remember you with kind words. Con­tin­u­ing above the plateau, we encounter a short, steep snow slope of about 40 degrees. The trio had left Italy on 17 July for Kirghizistan and reached Base Camp … A rope. On 3 August the Italia Emilio Previtali snowboarded off the summit of Pik Lenin 7134 m, via a new line directly down the North Face. Final­ly there is a rocky sec­tion that leads to the sum­mit. Have a good flight ! The former consisted of a head of Lenin, some small statues of Communist leaders, a triangular metal cone of the same type you can still find on the eastern summit of Elbrus.Unfortunately, most of those cool monuments of past times got stolen some years back.Pik Lenin is a border mountain between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, but ascents from the Tajik side are very uncommon. Here's a Warning I found on a page about Pik Lenin. google_color_text = "000000"; easily accessible The fact that Tajikistan had one of history's most brutal civil wars some years back and still has a very bad reputation of being a dangerous place is another factor.Additional reasons for the peak's popularity is the hospitable surroundings. It was also the original name before it was called Pik Lenin.The Kyrgyz authorities claims the new name is Pik Sary Tash and the Tajik president's official site declares the official name is Abu Ali ibni Sino (Avicenna). google_ad_height = 90; Someone has information about the first winter ascent? Thanks Dmiki. Pik Lenin is located on the border of Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. 22/7 Day 10: Load carry C2 to C3 (4 hrs), summit Pik Razdelnaya and return to C2, sunny and clear. The range is dominated by Pik Lenin (7134m), a popular peak for those who're trying their first attempt of high-altitude climbing. : +7 (499) 504 98 99 Via Toktogul.National Highway 41 takes you first over the Töö-Ashuu Pass (3586m) to Toktogul which is roughly 300km from Bishkek. You can self arrest with an axe, not with sticks. Pik Lenin, West-East Traverse Kyrgyzstan, Pamir In July, Markus Gschwendt (Austria) and Anton Sharobayko (Russia) made a lengthy and unusual traverse of Pik Lenin (7,134m). : (+996) 55665 77 99 3. Some climbers do and make it to the summit, but then you're really playing high.Nice to have, Do you know if a list of 'snow leopards' is maintained somewhere on the web? A very brief article about the incident by Ken Nolan. (Days 3-6): A light covering of new snow mostly falling on Tue night. 9, Solovyinaya Roscha str. google_ad_height = 90; Initial exploration of this part of Central Asia occurred in the period 1774–82. Quite a good article here about a snowboard descent in 1999... Touroperator in Central Asia "Central Asia Travel" also provides similar services. Usually you have to overnight in St. Petersburg. Just ask for "Alpinist-Wladimir" and the person you ask will know.The only way to reach Pik Lenin from central Tajikistan is to travel on the Pamir Highway and for this you need an additional permit. Movement in crampons. The only noise is the tumble of melted glacier water, interupted… 1. A harness, karabiners, slings for roping up etc. If I'm correct, only one person ever climbed all 5 of these peaks from Hungary - Zsolt Erõss (last two peaks in 1994) (also the first Hungarian to climb Everest, in 2002. Tashkent, Uzbekistan Go down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the steep take-off to the wide western ridge of Lenin Peak. google_ad_client = "pub-0821736599960485"; If you camp alone, away from the organized camps; never, ever leave your tent unattended. Because of this fact it has become one of the most popular peaks in the world and annually recieve hundreds of climbers from all over the world.Famous for its Soviet era summit artifacts and infamous for its bad and unpredictable weather. The mountain is climbed during all seasons. It is now possible to fly directly to Osh. E-mail: After Naryn (360m out of Bishkek) the road condition deteriorates step by step and after Kazarman (560km from Bishkek) the rough climb up the steep 3100m Kaldama Pass can be a taxing and bone-shattering experience. Getting There - From Kyrgyzstan There are two main routes from Bishkek to Pik Lenin.Via Toktogul and via Naryn.Regardless of which route you choose, there are some high passes along the way and minor high altitude symptoms may occur. Five mountains reach the altitude of 7000 meters in the area of former Soviet union: Pik Korzhenevskaya (7105m) and Pik Kommunizma (7495m) in Tajikistan and Pik Lenin (7134m), Khan Tengri (7010m) and Pik Pobeda (7439m) in Kyrgyzstan. Pik Lenin is included in the The last couple of years it has had even more visitors than its Kyrgyz neighbour, but since the requirement of peak fees were dropped in Kyrgyzstan and Muztagh Ata for some seasons was under control of an investment company (which charged high fees) Pik Lenin is now back in first place as the most popular 7000m mountain.Difficulty. Preferably a long one, which can double as walking stick. More important though, is the deep snow which make attempts very hard and the avalanche danger is generally higher. I couldn't find one. Green light filtered through the roof of the tent and I lay in my sleeping bag, thinking I’m … Many times you can climb the peak even if cloudy, but you'll miss the great views from the summit. Osh, Kyrgyzstan If going with the local nomads; always ask if you have to pay for the ride! I like this bit: The route out of Camp 2 follows a ~35-40 degree slope before traversing across gentle terrain to the base of Pik Razdelnaya. : + 7 (095) 911 77 32; 911 77 73Fax: + 7 (095) 911 77 73E-mail: asiatravel@cityline.ruWebsite: Asia Travel AgencyVadim Khaibullin (director) Radostovtsa str., 359 050060, Almaty, Kazakhstan Tel +7 3272 497936 Tel/fax +7 3272 482573 Website: Detailed map of Lenin Peak area and scheme of arrival in Base Camp of Lenin Peak. Here they camped twice at 6,031m. google_ad_format = "728x90_as"; 2. Ascend NW Ridge of Pik Lenin. Arguably the first recorded travel through the region is the involuntary journey of the slave Filipp Efremov (an ethnic Russian), who escaped from slavery in Bukhara. The nomadic culture on the pastures of Kyrgyzstan is still very much alive.A very popular peakLooking at climbing history and number of ascents, Pik Lenin is by far the 7000m peak which has recieved most ascents.The only contender of being the most popular 7000m mountain is Muztagh Ata. Ice axe. Though 3 Italians on my flight lost their luggage - I have no information how it was resolved.Regarding agencies - I used Ak-Sai in August 2014 - sometimes difficult to communicate in English in camps but otherwise good service".Hautecima adds (July 2015)"Pegasus Airlines ( offer flights from Istanbul(Sabiha Gökcen), Dushanbe, Delhi and several Russian airports to Osh.Furthermore they offer flghts between Bishkek and Osh.Their fares are mostly very interesting." (ie. can you still obtain this title?) This is still the the worst accident in mountaineering history. It is Pik Lenin Weather (Days 0-3): Mostly dry. Camps/snow caves on 5500, 6000 and 6500. On 13 July 1990, 45 mountaineers were stationed at Camp II on the Razdelnaya route at 5,300m on Lenin Peak preparing themselves for their next ascent to Camp III. Base infoPik Lenin is the third highest peak in the former Soviet Union and is considered to be one of the easiest mountains over 7000m. Also here the situation has improved a lot lately and the road is now considered safe.After 160km, just after Komsomolabad, you leave M41 and head for Dzhirgatal which is 140km away on A372. The ride from Sary-Tash is mostly over the huge grassy valley of Alau before it finally climbs up towards BC on a rough road.Via Naryn.A very busy stretch of industrial wastelands takes you east to the foothills of a small range and further to the shores of Ysyk Köl Lake. If you fall to the South, it will cost a fortune to search for your remnants - The South Face of Lenin peak can only be reached by a helicopter - and it's not cheap. Getting There - From Tajikistan, Pamir Highway Get a "Gorno Badakshan O.A. The road mostly follow the border river Pandzh and on the other side you can see the rugged landscape of Afghanistan. All Rights Reserved. E-mail: Kyrgyzstan highest //-->, ,